DAHLIA GROWERS GUIDE

PLANTING:

TEMPERATURE: Dahlias are sensitive to cold temperatures. Do not plant dahlia tubers until all danger of freeze/frost has passed.

STORAGE: Tubers from Meadow Forge can be stored in their packages, in a cool dark place until you’re ready to plant. Inside the bags is wood chips or vermiculite which can be discarded at planting.

PLACEMENT: Dahlias do best in full sun. Plant tubers 5-6” deep and 12” apart. 

WATER: Do not water tubers until they’ve sprouted through the soil. Doing so can cause them to rot.

SUPPORT: Some dahlias need support due to their height. The best way we’ve found is using stakes and twine to attach the plant to the stake.

PINCHING: Pinching dahlias is optional, but will give them a stronger base as the plant matures. The best time to pinch dahlias is when they have 4 sets of leaves or around 12” tall. By pinching off the center growing point, the plant puts energy into the lateral growth creating a sturdier base. Pinching your dahlias will delay blooms by a few weeks. If you don’t pinch your dahlias, keep in mind when you harvest your first flower to cut deep into the plant (that is essentially your “pinch”).

FERTILIZER: Dahlias can be fertilized, but it is not required. Whether that be by using compost or a flower garden fertilizer, both options will work great.

WATERING: While dahlias need water if the soil is dry, we recommend the occasional deep watering instead of small, frequent, shallow watering.

WEEDS & PESTS:

COMMON PESTS: Japanese beetles, thrips, aphids, slugs, leafhoppers. 

TIP: Use your local ag extension for guidance on how to manage pests in your area. To protect the blooms against pests, we have found great luck in covering the bloom with an organza bag as soon as we see color in the bud and up until its time to harvest.

COMMON WEED MANAGEMENT PRACTICES: Cultivation, weed barrier (plastic or paper barrier to block sun from weeds growing), or mulching.

HARVESTING BLOOMS:

TIME OF DAY: The best time to harvest flowers is early in the morning or late in the evening. Mid-day flowers are least hydrated from the high sun. 

TOOLS: Use a sharp and sanitized tool to cut deeply above a leaf node with a long enough stem for bouquets. Strip leaves and place cut flowers directly into water and let rest for best hydration and vase life. For the longest vase life, replace water frequently, remove any foliage that sits below the water line, do not place near fruit or vegetables and keep away from direct sunlight. 

Dahlias are not known for their vase life but their fleeting beauty is all part of their allure!  Ball type and decorative type dahlias will last the longest in a vase while dinner plate, anemone or collarette types have a shorter vase life.

HARVESTING TUBERS:

Dig dahlia clumps starting about 9-12” away from the stalk as to not injure the tubers underground. We recommend using a potato fork or pitchfork. Fully loosen the soil surrounding the tubers and gently lift the clump. 

Although damaged tubers are more susceptible to decay, piercing a tuber with a tool won’t kill it if it has 3 essentials: a crown, an eye, a neck, and a tuber.

In zones 7 and lower (where winter reaches 20 degrees and colder) your dahlia plant will be killed by a frost. Once a dahlia receives frost, the plant will become blackened— be sure to tag your plants before frost for future identification, if that is important to you. Leaving the plants in the ground for at least one week after frost before digging will toughen the skin and aid in their ability to store over winter.

Beware, rain can collect in the stalk of the dahlia and cause the root system to rot, so wait to cut back plants until you’re ready to dig or there is a clear forecast. Be sure to cull any plants that seem unhealthy so you keep the best and strongest plants for your future gardens.

DIVIDING TUBERS:

Tubers can be divided at any time once dug. We typically wash the clump prior to dividing. Tuber eyes can be seen easier immediately after being dug or closer to planting time when tubers are “waking up” for planting time.

Tubers need 3 things: a crown, an eye (where new growth is formed), a neck, and enough starchy material to provide the tuber food to grow roots (tuber).

Tubers come in all shapes and sizes - just like us! Some form eyes sooner or later than others, have fragile skin, or even store better than others.

The size of a tuber does not indicate whether a plant will be bigger or smaller, or produce more flowers.

STORING TUBERS:

The easiest way to pick which storage method would work for your tubers is starting with where you will be storing them. Tubers want be cool (40-50*) and humid (60-70%). However you can best recreate that scenario is what’s best for you. Most gardeners find great success with a basement or an insulated garage. You can use a variety of containers: wash bushel boxes, wooden crates, plastic bins, cardboard boxes. You can also use a variety of insulating materials: peat moss, vermiculite, wood shavings.

The goal is to retain enough moisture to keep the tubers from shriveling or drying out while also keeping them cool but not too cold. Do not let tubers freeze - frozen tubers turn to mush! Check on your dahlias periodically in storage. If tubers are too moist you can increase ventilation and if they’re too dry or shriveling you can try misting/dampening your growing media.